This site is dedicated to detailing the installation of an all aluminum LS1, V8 engine, and 6speed T56 transmission removed from a 2000 Camaro Z28 and installed in a 1982 Volvo 245 Turbo Wagon.  While this car is not yet running it is well on its way to putting 300 RWHP in a boxy, very utilitarian, Volvo.   Hopefully, with the proper work, the suspension and other drivetrain components will be up to the task of keeping the power firmly planted.

The Crossmember

My Custom Crossmember Out of the Car:

The crossmember is made out of 2"x3" square bar tubing.  It is necessary because the LS1 is deeper than previous small block Chevy's (SBC).  Because of this the oil pan interfered with the Volvo crossmember.  The original Volvo crossmember was cut bellow the where the control arm bolts in.  The square bar fit right over the original crossmember. Bolt holes were drilled through so the control arm bolts through both the original crossmember and the square tubing.  We had some difficulty as all the welding caused some flexing in the square tubing making it so the crossmember was short by about 1/8".  Using lots of profanity and jumping on it to get some of the flex out we got it to bolt back in.

Simply put, if you want to do an LS1 in a 240 Volvo you will need to make a new crossmember.  There is no way around it.  Believe me I tried.  I even purchased an oil pan for the GENIII truck engines.  It fit with the Volvo crossmember, but still interfered with the steering rack.  And the deep back part of the oil pan stuck down about 2 inches below the OEM Volvo crossmember.  Therefore the truck oil pan would have needed major modification.  So much so that it would not have been able to hold as much oil.  From talking with several people that knew more than me, it seemed very questionable to modify the truck pan as much as was required.

Engine Mounts:

These engine mounts were welded out of 3/8" inch steel plate.  They are designed to bolt in and out of our crossmember. You will notice the four bolt holes on the crossmember that correspond with the mounts.

Crossmember on the Car:

Here is the crossmember as it sits on the car.  If you are looking closely you'll see that the cross section is no longer 2" deep.  Well despite the best of measurements, the IPD lowering springs on the car with the lower crossmember gave me less than 3" of ground clearance.  Just too low.  So with the crossmember on the car I cut the bottom one inch of the 2" tubing off (I just couldn't stand to remove the engine and all accessories and the crossmember again).  Then my friend welded a piece of 3/8" steel plate to the bottom for reinforcement.  I traded off a little stiffness for almost 3/4" of ground clearance.  Now, the crossmember flexes just a bit when I jack the car by the center of it.  Before, it didn't flex at all.  Hopefully the Cherry Turbo strut brace and the GT strut to firewall braces will make up for this. Perhaps I'll weld in crossmember to frame rail bars at some point.  Obviously I need to re-sand and then repaint the bottom of the crossmember.  I might also remove it and have it sand blasted and powder coated for long wear.

Because of the deeper engine and oil pan the steering rack is about 1/2" farther down to accommodate this.  Do you see the tie rod pointing slightly upward?  Can you say bump steer?  I'll either get a bump steer kit from Dick Prince in Australia or from MVP Volvo in Portland, OR (now in prototype) if they are ready in time. 

This also means that the steering shaft is now too short and needs to be lengthened.  Here is a picture of the now too short steering shaft.  I will be taking the steering shaft to machine shop soon for lengthening.

Steering Shaft Clearance:

Motor Mount Close ups:

            passenger                                            driver